Grilling in Groningen

It’s good to get out of town now and again. Even if the town in question is Amsterdam and you’re new to said town. After 5 weeks of heavy networking, 2-5 meetings a day with new people, biking like mad in order not to be late to said meetings and telling my story over and over again..well, I really needed a break.

Enter good friend Richard Kastelein of Agora Media Group, Expathos and a handful of other fascinating businesses (the man has his own wiki page for Pete’s sake!) and his lovely family; all lovely ladies, which includes his wife, three beautiful little girls, the cat and the dog.

After a smooth and relatively short (by US standards) train ride I arrived at the lovely town of Groningen, which is the northeastern most province of the Netherlands. It’s a nice sized town consisting of just over 185,000 residents and a good sized college which makes for a busy and ever changing mix of inhabitants.

After dropping off my bags our primary mission was to shop for that evening’s dinner via the local fish and vegetable market where Richard promised we’d find everything we needed for our grill fest.

Thankfully his little girls (ages 4-7) all enjoy fish so fish it would be. Here’s a nod to feeding young children foods parents eat..no chicken nuggets in this household! So off on our bikes we went with grocery bags tucked away and the lovely Spring day surrounding us.

When we arrived we did a quick visual tour to plan the meal…we’d grab the whole salmon last and head to a nearby Moroccan shop for olives, pita,  and hummus first then load up on veg, fruit, fresh herbs and local eggs.

Richard had a blast as I described uses for some vegetables he was unfamiliar with or whose uses extended beyond raw salads. I explained how the common red radish takes on a mellow, almost sweet flavour when tossed in olive oil and roasted in a hot oven; it’s red skin turning a beautiful pink with the slow caramelizing of internal starches. Same could be said for the long, white daikon radishes we passed. Roasted slowly in the oven, grilled over coals or sliced thinly for pickles, it really is a versatile vegetable whose radishness (I couldn’t help myself) is easily tamed with a bit of extra care.

Yet we opted to keep things simple, kids in mind, and try not to press our culinary luck too much with new additions to their existing repertoire. It was hard not to buy more than we needed because everything looked, smelled and tasted so good. I’m not afraid to admit that I spend more money on food than any other item in my life; more than shoes, clothes and cosmetics combined. To me there’s nothing more amazing, enjoyable or easy to share with others. Clothing styles come and go but great food is timeless and universal.

In the end we opted for simple side dishes of rosemary and garlic roasted baby red potatoes and grilled peppers with a little grilled fennel bulb. A cold cucumber and fresh dill salad was also included since the girls love cucumber. From the sea we chose to grill a whole salmon with a mix of fresh rosemary, red onions, garlic, fennel, olives and lemon; a blend of Mediterranean flavours that would perfectly match the weather, be easy to assemble and appeal to our young dinner guests.

Cycling back we stopped off at another square for a freshly made “Stroopwafle” which I have affectionately renamed “Crackwafle” since it’s my opinion that you can’t eat just one of these addictive, caramel centered, thin waffle-walled cookies. They are so addictive in fact that I have to force myself not to buy them when I go to the store..and yes, they come covered in chocolate as well! Pure sin.

Back at Richard’s we got to work prepping and talking shop. Seems cleaning fish and veggies goes quite well with talk of internet marketing, blogging, online publishing and social TV. Richard’s passion for Convergent Media, where all fields of on/offline communication cross to provide a true high point of social interaction, is akin to my love of fusion cuisine; where drawing from the various communication cultures blend into one harmonious and powerful way of connecting to each other. Where spices, herbs and raw ingredients blend in my world so does communication platforms merge in his. It all made for a great and delicious mix.

I’m not going to list any actual recipes in this post because we didn’t follow any. We used our collective experiences to create an incredible and simple meal that had us full-bellied and smiling by the end of the night. Breakfast the next day only extended the fun as we played “Duck, duck, goose!” with an incredible mix of duck and goose eggs from the market.

It was a weekend of pure food and shared experience that none of us will soon forget. Until next time gang!

Tapioca: going beyond pudding

If I say “tapioca?” most peoples’ responses would be “pudding”..

Cassava root

But is there more to those translucent pearls than just sticky sweets and weird teas? I like to think, yes. After moving a bag of tapioca pearls from one side of my pantry to the other I decided to play around a little bit and I hope you do too.

First off let’s consider what tapioca actually is. It’s a starch extracted from the flesh of the cassava root that is then processed into powder, dried pearls or dried sticks. Mainly used as a thickening agent and a dessert starch it’s a gluten-free food made up almost completely of starch (ie carbohydrates) and with close to no protein. The pearls come in an assortment of sizes from 1mm to 8mm.

From a gluten-free and low fat perspective it’s almost the perfect food..if it weren’t for all of that starch and carbs (not good for diabetics). Oh yeah, and that annoying lack of protein. To be honest I was craving pudding but I was also curious to see what else I could do with it. I opted to treat the pre-cooked tapioca pearls like any other starchy grain like rice, or barley. In the end the experiment led to four dishes: a cold, savory salad, a vegan caviar-like item, a hot dish with sauted mushrooms and a super quick, low-fat pudding.

Due to it’s high carb load and glycemic index it’s not a food you want to eat every day (unless of course you need that in your diet) but it makes for a fun treat now and again. The first step in almost all of these recipes was to pre-cook to tapioca pearls with a 6:1 (water:pearls) ratio. Depending on the next use of the pearls you can either rinse the pearls in a fine sieve with cold water (as I did for the salad) until they stop sticking to each other (for the most part) or cool them down in their cooking water for puddings and the like.

Have fun and get creative. After all tapioca is very inexpensive so if you make any mistakes it won’t cost you much in the end. After all tapioca is very inexpensive so if you make any mistakes it won’t cost you much in the end.

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Summer Salads: to Hell with frozen nibblets!

Sweet Ontario corn

Labour Day speaks to true Summertime fare with BBQ, salads and sweet Summer corn. Below you find some simple and fun ideas and the freedom to create your own dishes. Nothing too complex just enjoyable guidelines to help keep the work in the kitchen light and the long weekend relaxed.

Potato Salads

No need to get all gooped up with may this year. German style potato salads, yogurt based dressings and simple ingredients can turn your average dish into something fun and different. No need to much around with a blender either, just make a few additions to your favourite bottled dressing to add a little wow to the dish.

Trio of Summer Salads: two potato, one beet

Potato Salad Basics:

• Any potato you have on hand will do, be it sweet, baking or red bliss. Well washed and simmered in salted water until cooked through but still firm. Cook a few days in advance for less work the day before your BBQ. Have more than one type on hand, make your salad colorful by combining varieties.

• Give your salad some time to marinate, let those spuds soak up the flavour. Check your salad for salt and vinegar before serving, you may need to adjust at the last minute.

• Once your spuds are boiled and cooled slice and pan fry for added texture and flavour before adding to your salad.

• Spuds love citrus so play with adding both lime and lemon zest and juice to your salads.

• Adding vinaigrette based dressings to warm potatoes helps the dressing absorb into your spuds.

• Add some crunch! Last minute additions like diced peppers, shaved carrot or chopped water chestnuts add unexpected crunch and a nice departure from steadfast celery.

• Add creaminess without the fat. Cook a few potatoes a little longer than the red, skin and puree along with your dressing of choice. The pureed potatoes will add body to your salad and lessen the amount of mayo you’ll need.

• Make-your-own: who says you can’t have a make-you-own potato salad bar. Some chopped, crisp bacon, sliced, scallions, assorted veggies and condiments let guests make it their way when they dress up their burgers and dogs.

• Add zip and zing: adding a touch of mustard adds a nice tang to salad. With so many types to choose from with herb-infused, stone ground and ethnic chutneys the sky’s the limit.

• Don’t get stuck in a mayo rut. Thick, low-fat yogurt makes for a great dressing addition. Add all of part yogurt to lighten your salads.

  

  Light potato salad with crisp veggies and yogurt dressing

Sweet Summer Corn

What would Summer be without corn? Steams, boiled, first roasted or even eaten raw it’s no wonder this beloved staple of the BBQ is so well used. From golden yellow to two-toned “Peaches and Cream” you better take full advantage of some of the incredible end of Summer sales at places like No Frills before the season is gone and it’s back to frozen nibblettes.

Perfect corn salad filled with Mexican flavours

Summer Corn Basics:

• The sugar in corn quickly converts to starch as soon as it’s picked so the freshest corn you can get really will be the best since the older it is the more it will taste like feed.

• Don’t just chuck the shuck! Corn silk and the tender center leaves make a great soup stock filled with mellow corn flavour. If you’re not in the mood for making soup now, stuff the golden strands into a zip lock bag and store in the freezer, soup making weather is a stone’s throw away.

• Want a fast, healthy snack? You don’t need to go to Little India for that amazing spicy corn. All you need is a gas stove/broiler, a nice spice mixture and a lime and you’re all set at a fraction of the price. (see recipe below)

• Need a crisp, refreshing salad that won’t wilt in the sun? Quick roasted corn cut from the cob and mixed with diced, peppers, red onion, kidney beans and a tangy citrus dressing will fit the bill nicely. Don’t forget the herbs, corn loves mixing it up with sage, rosemary, parsley, thyme, chives and basil just to name a few.

• Speaking of herbs, compound butters make for a nice addition for hot corn on the cob. Puree softened butter with the herb(s) of your choosing and your ready to go. Make sure to let guests know if you’re using salted butter so they don’t add more salt then they need when seasoning their corn.

• Just finished cutting the kernels from your roasted corn? Good, now save those cobs for your stock or use them to create a natural wrack under over roasted chicken.

South Indian Corn Spice Mix

Perfectly fire roasted corn

2 tsp Cumin Seed, lightly roasted

4 tsp Garlic Powder

4 tsp Ancho Chili Powder

1 tsp Spanish Paprika

8 Tbs Kosher Salt

2 tsp Black Pepper

Optional:

2 tsp Cayenne Pepper

• Use only if you and your guests want to add a little heat to the mix. Make a separate spice mix without heat when serving to young children.

Method:

1. Combine all ingredients into a spice grinder and grind until fine. Store in an airtight container until needed.
2. While corn is still hot cut a lime into 1/4s and dip into spice mixture before rubbing along the length of the corn. Re-dip into the spices as needed.
3. Spice mix can also be made into a compound butter with lime zest for a similar effect.

Baby Roma Tomatoes with Herb Ricotta

These easy to make and beautiful gems combine fresh flavors to make a classic hor d’oeuvre or plated starter. Ripe Roma tomatoes, fresh herbs and a simple, homemade ricotta cheese recipe makes for a flavor explosion that sings of Summer patios, crisp white wines and the company of family and friends. This recipe is very easy to multiply to fit your needs and the ricotta filling can be used on crustini and in pasta dishes as well.

Ingredients:

1.5 cps Homemade Ricotta

2 cloves of Garlic, grated

Zest of 1/2 Lemon

3 Tbs of fresh herbs (rosemary, dill, basil, lavender buds)

2 Tbs Fresh Chives, small slice

1.5 tsp Kosher Salt

1/2 tsp Black Pepper

1lb Baby Roma Tomatoes

Fresh Herbs for garnish

Method:

1. Combine all filing ingredients and reserve in fridge.
2. Gently wash and dry tomatoes.
3. Using a very sharp knife, cut a small sliver off of each tomato end then cut tomatoes in half on the bias. Cutting just the slightest bit of each end off will allow halves to sit upright.
4. Gently cut out the seeds and insides of each half and discard.
5. Pat halves with dry paper towel to absorb excess moisture.
6. Fill a piping bag (or zip lock bag with it’s end cut) with the cheese mixture and fill each tomato half.
7. Garnish and chill until service.
8. Cam be made 2-3 hours in advance.

Options:

• Use different varieties of a single herb: 5 basil ricotta, pineapple and varigated sage, lemon thyme and orange thyme are just a few ideas.
• Add chopped olives and anchovies.
• Add chilled, minced, grilled chicken for an ultra rich chicken salad.
• Broil tomatoes before adding garnish and serve hot…. really, the sky is the limit.

Roasted Corn, Herb and Ricotta Ravioli

Thanks to ready-made wonton wrappers making your own ravioli can take a matter of minutes vs. labour-intense hours. This recipe can be easily augmented to include any flavour profile you wish or can got from vegetarian to non-vegetarian in minutes with the addition of cooked chicken, meat or seafood.

Once prepared these ravioli can be cooked immediately or blanched, chilled in cold water and rubbed with olive oil for later use via a quick bath on boiling water. The corn used is on the cob and can be roasted directly over the flame of any home gas stove or on a backyard grill. A good, dark char on the kernels is more important than cooking the corn completely through. Thawed frozen corn kernels can also be used off season by flash roasting in a non-stick pan over the highest heat setting.

Ingredients: Serves 6 (8 Ravioli per guest)

1 Package of Wonton Skins, 400gm

2 Egg Whites, lightly whipped

4-6 Fresh Ears of Corn, flame roasted and sliced off of the cob

2 cps Homemade Ricotta

4 tsp Fresh Sage, finely chopped

4 tsp Fresh Shives, finely sliced

2 tsp Fresh Cilantro, chopped

2 tsp Fresh Lime zest or 1/4 tsp natural lime powder

2 Tbs. Parmesan Cheese

1/2 tsp Black Pepper

1 tsp Garlic Powder

1/2 tsp Ground Cumin (preferably roasted)

2 tsp Kosher Salt

1/2 tsp Ancho Chili Powder

Enough whey left over from ricotta making to cook all of the raiolli.

Herbs and Parmesan cheese to garnish.

Method:

1. Char the corn over an open flame, turning every minute or so to get an even toast all the way around. Don’t worry if some of the kernels get quite black, this will only add to the smoky flavour of the dish.
2. Cool the corn then the kernels cut from the cobs, using 1/2cp for the ricotta filling and reserving the rest for garnish.
3. Combine remaining ingredients except for the egg whites to make your filling.
4. Lay out 6-8 wonton skins at a time on a clean surface, brush lightly with egg white and place a teaspoon of filling in the center of each wonton and seal with a second, gently pushing out any extra air.
5. Continue until all of the filling and skins are used. Freeze wontons in a single layer or cook fresh.
6. Heat the left over whey from your ricotta making add salt to taste with 2 teaspoons of olive oil. Gently boil fresh ravioli for 1-2 mins or frozen ravioli for 3-4 mins until wonton is translucent.
7. Toss with sauce of choice (light cream sauce, red sauce or hot whey) and garnish with fresh herbs and remainder of roasted corn.

Options:

• Prepare ravioli in advance: cook ravioli for slightly less time than directed and shock immediately in ice cold water to stop cooking. Dry with paper towel, brush with olive oil and store on a sheet pan covered with plastic wrap. Separate layers of pre-cooked ravioli with more plastic wrap and seal tightly. Ravioli can be kept refrigerated this way up to two days in advance. Reheat in boiling water of hot whey when needed.

The Dairy Days of Summer

Ricotta is an incredibly easy cheese to make. Though it’s traditionally made with the whey left over from hard cheese manufacturing (makes you wonder why it’s so expensive doesn’t it?) the average cook can use a mixture of whole milk dairy to produce the same effect.  Whole milk and yogurt are the best options to start with. Balkan style or Greek style yogurts are best due to their rich taste and high fat content.  Use the best dairy you can find including organic, raw or goat milks and if you’re feeling really decadent you can make a full fat version using heavy cream. You can also make a similar cheese using soy milk or a mixture of soy and dairy milk. Have fun and say goodbye to the watery, overly expensive store-bought stuff you’ve been buying. Check out additional recipes like including this delicate, fresh ricotta like Roasted Corn, Herb and Ricotta Ravioli and Baby Roma Tomatoes with Herb Ricotta.

Soy Ricotta with Buckwheat Honey and Lavender & Fresh Whole Milk Ricotta with Olive Oil and Lemon

Fresh Homemade Ricotta:

yields around 2 lbs

1 Gal (or 4 Lts) Whole Milk
1 Quart Plain Whole-Milk Yogurt (the higher the fat % the better)
3 teaspoons White Vinegar
1 teaspoon of Lemon Juice
1-2 teaspoon Salt (reserve 1 teaspoon for finished ricotta if necessary)
1/2 cup Heavy Cream

Method:

1. In a large stainless steel pot, bring the milk, yogurt, vinegar, lemon juice and salt over medium heat. Stir for a few minutes just enough to blend all of the ingredients. Heat until just under boiling then turn off completely and let sit for 2 minutes. Don’t actually allow the mixture to boil since too much heat will lead to rubbery curds.
2. Line a strainer with a few layers of cheesecloth (or use a new, fine weave, all cotton dish towel) and set it over a deep bowl.
3. Carefully pour the milk mixture into the strainer and let drain for 10-15 minutes. Gather the cheesecloth around the curds and squeeze gently to extract any excess liquid. This will leave you with very dry ricotta.
4. Reserve the left over whey (the liquid separated out from the curd) for additional recipes and as a tasty drink for people and pets.
5. If desired add in the heavy cream and some of the left over whey to create a smoother, creamier ricotta. Of just add more whey and omit cream. Adjust salt as needed.

Use immediately while still warm or chill thoroughly and refrigerated for up to three days.

Options:

• Use all lemon juice vs. Vinegar and add an additional 2 tsp for a more tangy and lemony curd.
• Though you can used reduced fat milk and/or yogurt the trues tastes lies in the high fat content.
• Removes as much whey as possible to use the ricotta as a salad topping or as a finish for baked goods.

• 

  Baby Roma Tomatoes filled with Herb Ricotta

Soy Ricotta:

yields just under 2 cps

4 cps Soy Milk (plain for savoury and vanilla for dessert ricotta)
1 teaspoon White Vinegar
2 teaspoons Lemon Juice
Salt as needed

Method:

1. Combine all ingredients and bring to a gentle simmer.
2. Cook for 2-3mins then store then fridge overnight to allow whey and curds to slowly separate.
3. Strain through extra thick cheesecloth for 2 hours.
4. *Due to the very fine, small curds formed soy ricotta tends to hold far more water and requires longer straining.
5. Add additional salt where needed.

This vegan ricotta is best used chilled though it can be added to hot pasta dishes just before service. The vanilla version is particularly delicious served as a spread on muffins, breakfast breads or on fresh fruit. Store for 3-5 days refrigerated.

If you don’t have time to make your own fabulous dairy products then you can check out Hans Dairy, the largest Ontario dairy specializing in South Asian dairy products, and their new Lassi/Yogurt Smoothies in Passion Fruit and Mango flavours. Delicious chilled or on ice and surprisingly fat-free even though the mouth feel is decidedly silky, rich and smooth. With only 70 calories per 125 mL it’s a great snack when you’re on the run or for lunch boxes. Look for Hans line of quality dairy products in South Asian grocery stores.

Hans Passion Fruit and Mango Lassi